I cannot see where RS gave any indications that lime or clay could be made into a preparation like the 500 or compost preps. 500 or compost preps are made from organic substances whereas lime and clay is an inorganic material. 501 being the exception to this.
GA You are right in your statements however just because RS did not say it, does not mean that it should not be attempted. I suggest however that when a development is attempted that we do pursue the path that RS did suggest for such developments, and this is to test it by experimentation, and know what we are doing, BEFORE we rush off and make a big noise about it.
Horn Clay I think is a very good example of how NOT to develop a product. Basically we have had a few people make something up in their heads, apply the ‘product’ into a already complex group of inputs – hence being unable to determine the role of any one specific input – when ‘overall better plant growth’ was seen, they then declare that their idea was right. And so we now have the Australian BDA furiously marketing a product they give very vague indications for with NO idea of the products real action, and a myth developing daily……
Now your point as to whether clay and lime lime need to be potentised. I agree with you on this. I see clay cations humus and sand as substances of the fourth layer. – 4 fold – not of the fifth layer – 7 fold – ala compost preps. The compost preps have been astralised’ via the use of animal sheaths, while the 4 fold layer is the etheric and we have to ask what would an etheric sheath be. Possibly a plant sheath of some kind. Maria Thun had a few suggests for this , however I decided that the etheric body of the earth itself is probably enough, and so no sheath was needed. We need to note that the compost prep herbs appear to work in a very similar manner even when not in sheaths, see the work of May Bruce of the UK.
yes additions of the substance to the soil is ultimately needed for wholesale changes to occur. Homeopathic stimulate what substance is already there and we have seen with the BD preps used alone that they will drain the soil of minerals, if the minerals are not replaced, especially in the first 9 years or so of ‘changeover’. Doubleday research said for compost the best clay addition was 1/10 the amount of manure needed ( I believe) . I use about a 6-8 inch ball of clay sprinkled over around 20 sq mts of vegetable bed, with very good effect. Sand can be heavier as it does not act as a cation sink in the way clay does, so part of the limit of clay applications is you have to fill it with cations, which for a time will have a negative effect on what is available to plants.
All these elements are to be applied according to your need, thus naturally all soils will not need clay. As we know a good ‘black soil’ is made of these four elements, so the FIRST question I ask when looking at a piece of land is which oif thee four elements are missing. Address that, part of which is the ala albrecht cation anion balancing task. You can only build a good house on good foundations. This is the foundations of the agricultureal organism.
re the use of homeopathic anything
IMHO, These have to be seen simply as stimulants that can be used in times of need, hence throughout the growing season, with an eye to what needs to be done physically later on when next p[reparing a bed. See my trials on the capsicums. They were not sizing up and one application of Homeo clay blew them up to full size. After a few weeks they stopped sizing again and so another spray and they blew up again. What this tells me is add some physical clay next time I prepare the bed, NOT, just keep using Homeo clay.